I heard candombe before I saw it. Walking back from the rambla on a Sunday night in Barrio Sur, the drums started somewhere behind me. Low at first, then layered. Three different rhythms, one heartbeat. I stood there like an idiot for maybe ten minutes before I followed the sound.
I did not plan to become a Tannat person. I moved to Montevideo knowing nothing about Uruguayan wine, and two years later I have a shelf full of it and strong opinions. Here is what happened. Why Tannat Tannat is not a grape you casually bump into. It is thick,
I've been going to the feria every week for two years now. Not because it's quaint or Instagram-worthy. Because it's where I actually buy food. The feria is Montevideo's weekly street market. Every neighborhood gets one. Tables on the sidewalk, tarps overhead,